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Showing posts with label The Big Move. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Big Move. Show all posts

Denver: We're back and here to stay!


What a summer! A road-trip from the West Coast to the East. First time visits to Oklahoma City, San Antonio, Phoenix, Portland (ME), Atlantic City, Buffalo, and Burlington (VT). We tried to make the best of our three free months off, visiting family from Florida to Boston and doing quite a bit in between. We drove the harrowing route to the top of Mount Washington in NH, RV'd around the Salton Sea and into the squatter community of Slab City, island hopped around Maine's Casco Bay in a mail-boat, camped on a hang-glider landing zone in the heart of Pennsylvania, lived on a boat for the weekend in Hilton Head, ate burritos in El Paso, air-boated in the Florida Everglades, canoed down the Schuylkill River, and saw some of our favorite musicians in Philadelphia and Trenton.

Lastly, we sold or donated anything that wouldn't fit in our Subaru (Ebay, Craigslist, yard sales) and headed for Denver; our last and hopefully final city of what has been nearly four years of travel and getting to live in amazing cities.

During these four years we've lived in 9 cities and taken the time to visit dozens more. Of the top 40 cities in the country, we've now lived in or visited 38. At the end of the year we will have been to every state except Hawaii.

San Francisco: Home sweet home #9 and first impressions of the neighborhood

We definitely like to mix things up with our housing; whether it's living on an island, above a grocery store, on the Delaware River, or in a high-rise on the 19th floor.  Even the apartment that felt like it was in the middle of a highway is remembered fondly. Now, we get to stay in a historic row-house!

This kind of apartment is common for the area and reminds me of others in Chicago and Philadelphia, but add in the neighborhood, and this place is like no other. 

Just a couple miles from the Pacific Ocean, near two enormous city parks, and in a mixed-purpose neighborhood with all types of shops and restaurants-- a cafe just a few yards from our door! There are also dozens of Asian markets a few blocks over where we can buy our canned jack fruit. 

Average rent in San Francisco is $3000 for a one-bedroom  and $4500 for a two-bedroom apartment. There are a lot of interesting and successful people in the area along with businesses and services to match. Instead of finding restaurant coupons in our
mailbox welcome package, we found deals offering gourmet meals delivered in 15 minutes, on-demand laundry, in-home doctor's visits, home cleaning, personal shoppers, and other services for people that actually make more money staying a couple extra hours at their IT jobs and letting other
people run their errands.

We've already been to San Francisco a couple times, so we've gotten most of the touristy stuff out of the way. Our plan is to enjoy the local neighborhood and stay out of our car. The city is only seven miles across, but with stop-signs and lights every block, it takes a long time to drive just a couple miles. It's often much quicker to bike or ride, so we'll be looking to buy some bikes (we left ours in Denver!) and get some transit passes. Plus, do you see the garages in the picture!? If you think

Oregon: Wrap-up and rating. On to the next city!

Roseburg, OR
Another three months has flown by and we're getting ready to leave Roseburg for the next city. My final feelings on Roseburg and Oregon are mixed. Oregon as a whole is nothing like the reputation it often gets from Portland, but overall it's a great state.

Shortly after the UCC shooting, I was reading harsh comments on-line coming from Texas and other areas in the south about "the hippies in Oregon" and their lack of guns and carry-permits. If only they new the truth! Oregon is just like any other state with the progressives in the cities and the conservatives in the country. Roseburgians loves their guns, pick-ups, and churches. The majority are downright hostile towards "liberals", Obama, and the "tree-huggers up in Portland" that criticize the logging industry and give them a "bad" reputation. I've mentioned a couple of times already being surprised by rampant obesity and confederate flags in town.

But we're glad we came for three months. The coast was amazing! I could see owning a beach house in Oregon and living here a few months a year. So, as far as our experience overall, it was definitely positive and we've had a great three months.

Liked: 

1. All the interesting names like Thor's Well, Cape Perpetua, Devil's Punchbowl, Devil's Churn, Wizard's Island.
2. The Minimum wage applies to everyone (servers included)

Oregon: Welcome to Roseburg!


For three years we've been living like nomads: Philadelphia, Dallas, Chicago, Fresno, Denver, Charleston, Anchorage. From the very beginning, the cities of Portland and Seattle have been at the top of our wish-list of places to live and now, we're here! Nearby anyway...

The closest we could get to Portland was Roseburg, OR; a small town of about 22,000 people along Interstate 5. From here it's about one hour to Eugene, two to Salem, three  to Portland, five to Seattle, and seven to Vancouver. We're planning to visit each of these cities for the first time. We'll also be able to spend time on the Oregon Coast, at Crater Lake National Park, and in the Columbia River Gorge.

Roseburg is one of the smallest and oldest populations I've ever live in. To give an idea, Clearwater has the oldest average age of any city in the state of Florida at 43.8 years. Roseburg's Average Median Age is 45.2! Sometimes it seems like there are more mobility scooters (many with sun shades!) in the crosswalks than people walking. Our apartment complex is bracketed by two retirement communities and a dozen medical complexes across the street.  Whenever I run errands in town, I've started carrying my kindle to have something to do in line during the inevitable dispute over coupons and senior citizen discounts. Not making fun. Just sharing the reality of the area. A lot of the older crowd I've come across in the cafes and local watering holes here seem like really fun and interesting people.

Anchorage: First week of living in Alaska and the new apartment


We've only been in Alaska a few days and nothing too eventful has happened, but I want to write before the initial culture shock wears off. Despite being a part of the U.S., Alaska is different enough that it's a little like visiting another country for the first time. Here are some things we've noticed:

1) If you ever fly to Alaska, reserve a window seat. The plane took off from Chicago around sunset and chased the sun through and over pink clouds the entire six-hour flight to Anchorage where it finally got dark shortly after arrival. Much of the trip I looked down on clouds and the snowy peaks poking through them. Sometimes it was hard to tell what was a cloud and what was a mountain. Huge gorges full of ice and snow between mountains looked like rivers but ran to nowhere. I found out later some of these gorges run deeper than the grand canyon and many of these mountains are taller than any we'd seen in Colorado or California.

2) Anchorage is in the middle of nowhere. That nowhere is beautiful mountains and wilderness but it's so sparsely populated here that it's unnerving. Alaska makes up almost 18% of the U.S. land mass and hardly anyone lives on most of it. Anchorage contains 41% of the state's population (second in single city concentration to only NY) and even in Anchorage, it feels sparse!
     Alaska's 2nd and 3rd biggest cities, Fairbanks and Juneau, are over 6 and 21 hours away, respectively. The fourth biggest city in Alaska has only around 9,000 people. To put this in continental U.S. terms, imagine that you live in New York City and have to drive to Pittsburg PA or Savannah, GA through mountain and wilderness to get to the nearest decent sized cities and these cities are

You know you're living too close to the highway...

Our apartment in Platte Park (south Denver)
...when you wake up and know the weather from the sound of traffic.

When we decided to extend beyond our initial three months in Denver, the owner of our first apartment decided she didn't want to renew. This apartment near the highway was the best that was available on short notice.

Living here was like being at the helm of a boat in a sea of traffic. When we opened the well-insulated doors and windows we would be blown back by an ocean of noise. Not only was one side of this corner apartment next to a highway, the other side also faced a busy intersection. Waking up on a raining day to the hiss and fizzle of wet tires on pavement was almost like waking up to the sound of ocean waves or a rushing river.

Elissa and Michal-ann battle it out at Washington Park
Despite its proximity to the highway it was in a great neighborhood. It was a few blocks from the excitement of Washington Park with its jogging trails, lakes, and paddle-board rentals. There was a train station right next to the apartment. It was a few blocks from South Pearl Street with its shady restaurants, coffee houses, weekend markets, and festivals. A few blocks further was Broadway and Antique Row.

After two interesting months we packed up and moved back downtown. Perfect neighborhood, wrong street.

Goodbye Dever, Hello Charleston, SC!

Bailey enjoying the beach

Of all the places we lived recently (Philadelphia, Dallas, Chicago, Fresno, and Denver), it's Denver we liked best, Denver we lived in the longest, and Denver I wrote the least about! I still plan to write some catch-up posts but for right now, on to something new...

We're on the north side of the island under all those trees!
For a change of pace, scenery, and temperature we chose Charleston as our next city. Now that we've settled on Denver as our eventual home, we decided we can enjoy the beaches and warmth of a city we'll probably never live in permanently. No offense Charleston, you've got a unique character, but you're known as the "most mannerly city" and the "holy city" for good reasons (more on this later). Your main attractions are old buildings and forts. Accordingly, we chose a place away from the city on Isle of Palms a couple blocks from the beach where we can

Denver: Home sweet home #5, bison on the loose, a redneck bus tour, and frisbee with the dead!


Third week in Denver and we're starting to get an idea of the city. Denver is similar to a scaled down Chicago in that all types of small, but vibrant, communities exist outside of the main downtown. We've done a lot of driving to decide where we want to spend time, but we keep learning about more areas. Then there are all the nearby cities-- Boulder, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins. All of Colorado's top 10 biggest cities are two hours away or less. Many are so close that it's hard to notice when Denver ends and another city begins.

Couple more notes to add to first impressions of Denver:

-- Austin, TX should keep the title "live music capital of the world" due to its public funding of artists and SXSW, but Denver actually has more music venues. Denver lacks the concentration of open-front bars and venues that makes places like Austin's 6th St so dramatic, but fans of live music won't be disappointed.

-- In California we experienced the spring transition months ago, but here we're back to winter. It isn't cold during the day, but a lot of the landscape is still brown and grey and many of the mountain attractions are still closed because of all the snow. Looking forward to full on spring!

-- I was disappointed with the limitation of the rail system until I found this map showing rail current projects. In a few years, the system will be much larger. It won't help while we're here this time, but it's good to have something to look forward to. The free 16th Street Mall Bus has been so successful they're adding more free downtown buses in a couple weeks. Need to go to the airport? Use one of the special bus stops downtown to take you there.

Some of what we've been up to:

Banjo Billy Tour! What better introduction to a new city than a Colorado style bus tour? From the bus's decorations and sound effects to the attractions and trivia, this tour was fun and helped us decide what we wanted to see more of. The bus showed us sites like Cheesman Park, Colorado Capital, Molly Brown House, Brown Palace, and the Botanic Gardens. Plus, it was on Groupon, so we got a good deal.



 
Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge: We only had an hour, so we went into the museum/welcome center and drove the safari-like roads and dirt paths through the refuge. We definitely plan on heading back to do some hiking. Four or five bison were feeling itchy during our visit and decided to leave the fields to scratch themselves on road signs so we got quite the close-up.


Ghosts at Cheesman Park: Every city we've lived in has spun their data to create a park brag of some type. Denver brags about having the most parks within city limits. With over 200 parks, most Denver residents are close to a good park. Many of these parks have one or two lakes and

Denver: First impressions and why my mom might be right about The Mile High City.

Flickr - Robin Zembrowski
In my post on Los Angeles, I wrote about the stereotypes and rumors people nationwide have about cities they've never been to. Until recently, my mental file on Denver was fairly sparse. Like San Diego, everything I heard was ravingly positive, but there wasn't much in the information to hold on to. Denver doesn't have a Golden Gate Bridge; it's not known for its weirdness or proximity to Silicon Valley. It has the Rockies, but I lived beside the Appalachians for years.
Didn't take us long to find some good pizza!
My mom, having spent a lot of time here, has been a long-time proponent, but I always pushed the city to the background with visions of Austin, Portland, and San Francisco dancing around in my mind. Now that we're here, it seems Denver has so much happening that it's hard to determine where to start. My praise might be premature since we haven't been here a week, but so far we're impressed. What a great city!

As I type this, I'm in our apartment, facing a window. Below is a large park spread along the river with a massive skate park, kayaking chutes, and bike trails that run for miles. Looking east I can see downtown, Coors Field, and the new Union Station. A couple blocks away are free buses that can take us from one end of downtown to the other on the 16th street mall. There are all the typical attractions of any big city like museums, stadiums, and tours, but there are also a large number of smaller bars and attractions that we haven't seen elsewhere. There is a low-key vibe mixed with creativity that allows for downtown bowling, a Bark Bar (bar +dog park), and event filled microbreweries. Open an event paper and the number of options are staggering: sidewalk chalk-fest, comedy open-mics, festivals. The music scene is well rounded with old, new, obscure, mainstream, indie, and more.

On top of all this, it seems like Denver is still accessible. While downtown living in other cities like Chicago and San Diego can cost upwards of a million for something nice. From the little we've looked, it appears it's still possible to get a house for under 300K within walking distance of
We call this juice where we come from
downtown Denver and all the city has to offer. With the city growing like it is, this might be a good investment. New train stations, regional rails, and buildings are going up everywhere. Denver has a shortage of construction workers. It's like Dallas a few years ago or Miami a few years further than that.

Denver has an average of 300 sunny days a year (more than San Diego, even!). The thin, drier air leads to bluer skies and a more intense sun. In addition to drinking more water and wearing sunscreen, it's recommended that visitors watch their alcohol intake. Just like golf balls, alcohol goes further. High Altitude Tips here.

Pot is legal in Colorado and the market is booming. I don't smoke, but watching the market bloom is fascinating. Denver has a store that sells chocolate dipped marijuana and the "apple store" of marijuana downtown. I'll post more pictures of this part of Denver later in our stay.

The one thing we thought we were leaving behind in California was cheap produce, but fruits and vegetables in Denver appear to be reasonably priced.

Finally, Denver police aren't quite like I've seen anywhere else. After only a few days here, we noticed a number of police in different areas hiding behind telephone poles and low walls with radar guns. Once they get someone (low speed areas), they jump out from hiding in front of the car, hail the car to a stop, and give the driver a ticket. Maybe they're trying to make up the money they're losing on traffic cameras fines that aren't being paid?

We haven't made a specific list of things we want to do, but we're keeping our eyes open. I'll be sure to post more on what we find and some pictures of our latest apartment.

Fresno: Travel home number four

I don't want to disappoint family or anyone else by not sharing pictures of our apartment in Fresno since I did everywhere else so, here we go!

This apartment is hardly as interesting as the apartments in Philadelphia, Chicago, or Dallas, but it has its own personality.

My favorite thing about this complex is the landscaping. Despite the ugliness that is the average apartment complex; here, each set of four apartments has its own walkway that winds to the entry with trees, bushes, and flowers galore. The plants create shade, seclusion, and homes for animals. The forest-feel isn't something we had in any of the other downtown apartments.

Despite its low walk-score, there is a small park and walking trail a few steps from our doorway. There is also a coffee shop, brewery, grocery store, and some restaurants a little further. There is a large park and other restaurants within a couple miles, so no complaints here! 

Chicago: Final post and where we're going next

That's it for Chicago! What a great city. As with the others, we weren't quite ready to leave when the time came.

If you aren't familiar with our evaluation scale or why we've creating our own when so many are available, read this first! While in each city, I've been writing about what we like, don't like, and what we've found to experience. All posts on Chicago can be viewed by clicking the Chicago tag at the top of the page. 

Favorite posts on Chicago:

Chicago: Never a dull moment!
Chicago: Towering views, lively fountains, beaches for dogs, and boat-shaped restaurants
Quick Quotes 38: Chicago
Chicago: Big Nachos, Big Pizza, Navy Pier, and the Blackhawks! 

The Scoring
(1-10 with 5 as average)
 --------------------------------
Chicago
Culture: 9
Environment:  8
Vegetarian Restaurants: 8
Cost of Living:   4
Transportation/Infrastructure: 7 
Climate: 6
People: 8
Pass/Fail: Pass


Notes: A lot of what made Chicago both good and bad was its size. Because of the number of people in Chicago there were more vegetarians and therefore more vegetarian restaurants. The city isn't necessarily more vegetarian than other cities, it's just bigger. Likewise, that many people leads to traffic a majority of the time. It's not that Chicago drivers are particularly bad (like in Dallas). 

What was unique to the city in comparison to the other places was how frequently photogenic, friendly, and nice-weathered the city was on a regular basis.

As with any visit to anywhere, our opinions are skewed by the season and where we lived in the city. We might like living outside of downtown and aren't sure if we would ever want to live there in winter, but for six-months it was a great experience. We'll be back and recommend it as a must-visit for anyone who is considering it.

On to California! 

Dallas: Final post and city evaluation


If you aren't familiar with our evaluation scale or why we've creating our own when so many are available, read this first! While in each city, I've been writing about what we like, don't like, and what we've found to experience. All posts on Dallas can be viewed by clicking the Dallas tag at the top of the page.

A few favorites:

The Scoring
(1-10 with 5 as average)
 --------------------------------
Dallas
Culture: 5
Environment:  9
Vegetarian Restaurants: 4
Cost of Living:   8
Transportation/Infrastructure: 8  
Climate: 6
People: 4
Pass/Fail: Pass

Notes: I can genuinely say I miss Dallas. It's clean, dog-friendly, fairly inexpensive, and eventful. The economy is doing great and there is room for growth. It gets really hot, but that's what A/C is for. You don't have to shovel your car out from under piles of heat. Though it didn't seem particularly progressive, we were sometimes surprised by pockets of genuine culture, art, and some of the best vegan food ever.

We ranked Dallas lower in certain categories, but the city's growth should naturally resolve these. A solid foundation is being laid in Dallas to create one of the best places to live in the country. I'm looking forward to seeing what the city Dallas becomes five years from now.

Another season, another city. Summer home = Chicago!


Finally fully settled in Chicago!

This move was rough. We were days away from moving and still hadn't found an apartment due to new housing procedures and a Bermuda vacation (like I said, rough). The day before we were to drive to Chicago, Lindsay found this apartment and we reserved it without knowing little more then it met our basic requirements (short term, pets allowed, etc...). Fortunately, it has turned out to be great a choice!


Our building is located in the River North area of downtown, a block from the Red Line. Dozens of restaurants and shops are with-in a block and hundreds more within walking distance. We're adjacent to the National Poetry Foundation building and walking distance from the Chicago Museum of Contemporary Art and

Interesting: Cyprus stealing citizen money and the ever increasing importance of diversification

How would you feel if you woke up this morning to find out that nearly 7% - 10% of the money in your savings account was being taken by the government? This is what happened to the citizens of Cyprus.

I couldn't sleep so I was reading news articles. The Cyprus story caught my eye along with this article on how much a bestselling novel will bring you nowadays ($12,000).

All types of events can sap financial resources. Historically, people have lost their life-long savings and retirement accounts when their corporation went under, others of us swallowed huge losses to our retirement accounts due to volatility. People lose their possessions to natural disasters, funds have to be diverted to cover unexpected medical conditions. Now, apparently, savings accounts are fair game.

I realize I'm mixing two different subjects, but with many meaningful occupations paying less than ever and a higher risk involved in accumulating wealth due to unrest and government failure, it becomes less about the money and more about enjoying life through non-monetary means. It's unfortunate that writing, programming, giving advice, and writing music now pays less than ever, but this isn't stopping a lot of people who are willing to enrich our lives for free because they understand the value in what they do.

If you're fortunate or skilled/smart enough to have money to invest. Diversify the hell out of it! Here is a great article I've been sitting on about work in the modern job market. Some, but not all, of the reasons coincide with my choice late last year to leave my job, go back to school, and change career paths.

1. We looked out at all the office buildings around us. “What do you see?” he said. “I don’t know.” “They’re empty! All the cubicles are empty. The middle class is being hollowed out.” And I took a closer look. Entire floors were dark. Or there were floors with one or two cubicles but the rest empty. “It’s all outsourced, or technology has taken over for the paper shufflers,” he said. 10 Reasons Why 2013 Will Be The Year You Quit Your Job.

To throw a third, but related, point into the mix. I went to see A Place at the Table with my wife last week. Eating $30+ in theater food while watching families try to survive on $4.45 a day made me question the value of my behavior. From what I saw, most people in the film were in the situation they were in because they made poor decisions. Isn't paying $60 for a movie that will show up on Netflix and some theater food similarly, a poor decision?

Dallas: Home Sweet Home (for a while anyway)

 
A few pictures from our new place in Dallas. The building itself isn't as nice as the last. It was built in 1965, and despite renovations and updates, still has negative characteristics of that time (small bathrooms, kitchens, closets, and lower ceilings). The downtown location, however, is exactly what we were looking for.


Dozens of restaurants are within walking distance as well as dog parks, museums, and small stores. The Arts District and Dallas Farmer's Market are a short drive (or long walk). One of the city's main DART (train) stops is a

Philadelphia: Final post and city evaluation


If you aren't familiar with our evaluation scale or why we've creating our own when so many are available, read this first! While in each city, I've been writing about what we like, don't like, and what we've found to experience. All posts on Philadelphia can be viewed by clicking the Philadelphia tag at the top of the page. 

A few favorites:


The Scoring
(1-10 with 5 as average)
 --------------------------------
Philadelphia
Culture: 8
Environment:  6 (but projects underway) 
Vegetarian Restaurants: 7 
Cost of Living:   4 
Transportation/Infrastructure: 4
Climate: 4
People: 8
Pass/Fail: Pass

Notes: Having lived in Philadelphia in 2001, I was impressed with the city's improvements both environmentally and culturally. People and drivers were more pleasant (relatively speaking for cities) than I remembered. Many projects were underway to increase the city's green spaces. There were a lot of great events like the city-wide John Cage Festival and the Steve Colbert Rosenbach Library exhibit. Taking into consideration that "5" is meeting average expectations, we liked Philadelphia a lot!.

The Big Move: We've created a rating scale for each city


A big reason for moving from city-to-city every three months, besides the experience and fun of it, is to decide where we want to eventually settle down. To help with the process, I've made a rough evaluation template (below). If anyone has ideas for other categories, comment below or send an email!

(Scaled from 1-10)

Culture: What are the music and art scenes like? Are there opportunities to see plays/opera/comedy. Are there a diverse set of restaurants and people? Is this city an important player in the regional/national/international perspective?
Environment: Cleanliness, availability of parks for exercise and relaxation. How dog-friendly is it?
Vegetarian Restaurants: The number of vegan/vegetarian restaurants says a lot more about a city than its eating habits. Is there enough respect for life and progressive thought in the city to support a vegetarian lifestyle?
Cost of Living: Big cities are more expensive for a reasons (high-demand), but how does the city compare to others. Is it doable and worth what it offers?
Transportation/Infrastructure: How does the city deal with storms and emergencies? How much of a hassle is it to travel? Availability of parking? Reasonable public transportation? Is the city expanding for growth? 
Climate: Can we tolerate the heat or cold?
People: We can find friends wherever we go, but what is the overall mood or mentality of the average person on the street? Do people seem polite, intelligent, interesting? How are the drivers? It's surprising how different places can be due to religious/economic inclinations.
Pass/Fail: Will we consider living here? Hopefully all the cities we live in will pass. If a city fails, meaning we'd

Officially unpacked in Dallas!


We're getting settled in Dallas, becoming used to the districts, and building our "places of interest" list. I miss Philadelphia and everyone there, but I can't complain about 60° and sunny! We've already taken quite a few long walks to explore the area . We've visited uptown, Deep Ellum, and scoped out the infamous "Dallas Underground". Pictures and details coming soon. I've added a "Dallas" category above to quickly see the posts on Dallas.

Here's to Philadelphia!


We're all packed up and about to head out. This city has been great! We'll miss being around family and the great restaurants and outdoor areas we've found. 

On to Dallas with excitement and a little regret...

Johnson City, TN


After living in six cities in the northeast Tennessee area, I've come to appreciate Johnson City for the gem of a town it is. It offers everything from downtown art galleries, dance clubs, and ethnic/fine dining restaurants to amazing rivers, mountains, and trails. Due to its smaller population and location in the bible belt, the culture and diversity are limited compared to huge cities. As with anywhere, you run into ignorance and small-mindedness characterized by whatever region you're in, but it's fairly progressive for the south and easily competes with larger nearby cities in culture.

The economy is strong being built around education and health care. Cost-of-living is one of the lowest in the country and part of the reason I moved there in the first place. In-state tuition costs make it possible to work your way through school. It's probably one of the few places one can survive on minimum wage.

It's the city I met and married my amazing wife in. The city Al Capone once called home. Little San Fran.  Little Chicago

Email if you have any questions. Some recommendations include:

Lola's (Amaretto!)
The Roan Balds
Acoustic Coffeehouse
Blue Hole Waterfall
Chimney Tops
Watauga Lake
Misty's
The Battery
Buffalo Mountain
Scratch Pizza
Linear Trail